2mm Tower / Lighthouse LEDs

2mm tower LEDs (also called lighthouse LEDs) are ultra-compact cylindrical through-hole emitters designed for applications where a standard round-top…

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2mm tower LEDs (also called lighthouse LEDs) are ultra-compact cylindrical through-hole emitters designed for applications where a standard round-top LED is too wide or too tall. The 2mm diameter and flat-top cylindrical body give these LEDs a distinctive tower shape — a miniature lighthouse silhouette that projects light radially outward rather than in a focused forward beam. This makes them the top choice for model railroad lighthouse and beacon structures, N-scale and Z-scale signal lights, navigation markers on ship models, and any miniature build where a standard 3mm LED is still too large.

Model railroaders building coastal scenes in HO, N, and Z scale rely on 2mm tower LEDs to replicate working lighthouse beacons. The cylindrical lens emits light through nearly 360° of the horizontal plane, simulating the sweeping beam pattern of a real lighthouse when paired with a slow-flash circuit or rotating mask. For fixed-beacon applications — harbor entrance markers, channel buoys, pier navigation lights — a steady-on 2mm tower LED in red or green produces a scale-accurate pinpoint of light visible across an entire layout room without the oversized glow that a larger LED creates. N-scale modelers especially appreciate the 2mm body diameter because it fits inside structures and signal masts that cannot physically accommodate a 3mm LED.

Beyond model railroading, 2mm tower LEDs serve architectural scale model builders who need tiny point-source lighting for building windows, streetlamps, and vehicle headlights in 1:100 and smaller scales. Wargaming and tabletop miniature painters use 2mm tower LEDs for cockpit instrument panels on 28mm-scale aircraft, bridge consoles on sci-fi starship models, and weapon glow effects on mecha figures. The ultra-small footprint means you can embed the LED entirely within the miniature body, routing the thin leads through a drilled channel to a battery hidden in the base.

Electrically, 2mm tower LEDs follow the same rules as all standard through-hole LEDs. Forward voltage depends on color: red/orange/yellow/amber approximately 2.0–2.2V; blue/green/white approximately 3.0–3.2V. Maximum forward current is 20mA, though many miniature applications look best at reduced current (5–10mA) for a softer, more realistic glow — increase your resistor value to reduce current proportionally. Use our LED resistor calculator to find the right resistor for your supply voltage and desired brightness. For AC-powered model railroad layouts using DCC track power or a traditional transformer, convert to DC first with a bridge rectifier and smoothing capacitor.

The cylindrical lens shape is what distinguishes tower LEDs from standard round-top types. A round-top 3mm or 5mm LED concentrates its output into a forward cone (typically 15–30° for clear-lens versions), making it very bright on-axis but nearly invisible from the side. A tower LED distributes light more evenly around the circumference of the cylinder, producing a wide horizontal viewing angle that mimics an omnidirectional beacon. This is why tower LEDs are named after lighthouses — the light pattern naturally replicates a beacon visible from all compass directions. For applications where you need a focused forward beam, our standard clear-top round DIP LEDs are the better choice.

Installation in miniature structures is simple: drill a 2.1–2.2mm hole in the structure body, insert the LED from the inside so the cylindrical lens protrudes through (or sits flush with) the outer surface, and route the two leads down through the structure to your wiring bus. A drop of clear CA (super glue) secures the LED in place. For lighthouse builds, many modelers paint the lower portion of the cylindrical lens body with opaque paint, leaving only the top “lantern room” section exposed — this creates a realistic scale lighthouse appearance. The leads can be bent and shaped to follow internal structure contours without damage as long as you avoid bending at the LED body itself.

If you need a slightly larger LED for HO-scale applications where a 2mm is hard to handle, our 3mm clear-top DIP LEDs offer the next size up with similar brightness and the same wiring. For plug-and-play wiring without resistor calculations, see our pre-wired LEDs — available in 3mm and 5mm sizes with built-in resistors for 5V, 6V, 9V, and 12V operation. New to LED wiring for model railroad layouts? Pre-wired LEDs are the easiest starting point — the resistor is already built in, so you just connect power and ground.

Frequently Asked Questions

A standard round-top LED has a domed lens that focuses light into a narrow forward cone (15–30°). A tower LED has a flat-top cylindrical lens that distributes light radially around the full circumference, producing near-360° horizontal visibility. This makes tower LEDs ideal for beacon and lighthouse applications where the light must be seen from all directions, not just head-on. Electrically, they are identical — same forward voltage, same 20mA max current, same wiring with a current-limiting resistor.
Use a 2.1mm or 5/64″ drill bit for a snug press fit in plastic, resin, or wood structures. If you want a slightly looser fit for easy positioning, step up to a 2.2mm bit. For very thin materials, the LED body may not self-retain — secure it with a tiny drop of clear CA glue from the back side. A pin vise or Dremel at low speed works best for drilling miniature structures without cracking them.
Insert the 2mm tower LED into the top of your lighthouse structure so the cylindrical lens sits in the “lantern room.” Paint the lower portion of the lens body opaque to block light below the beacon level. Wire the leads to your layout power bus through a resistor sized for your track voltage. For a flashing beacon effect, add a 555 timer circuit or use one of our animated flashing LEDs if available in the tower package. If your layout runs on DCC or AC track power, add a bridge rectifier to convert to DC.
Absolutely. Running at 5–10mA instead of the full 20mA produces a softer glow that looks much more realistic in miniature scenes, especially for building interiors and streetlamps. To reduce the current, simply increase the resistor value. Use our LED resistor calculator and enter a lower target current — for example, 10mA instead of 20mA — to get the correct resistor value. The LED will last longer at reduced current, too.
LEDs require DC power, not the AC-like waveform that DCC produces. To run any LED from DCC track power, wire a bridge rectifier (such as an MB1S or four 1N4007 diodes) plus a 100µF smoothing capacitor to convert the DCC signal to clean DC. Then wire the LED and resistor from the DC output. See our AC/DCC wiring guide for a complete diagram.
2mm tower LEDs are the best fit for N scale (1:160) and Z scale (1:220) model railroads, where a 3mm LED would look oversized relative to the structures. They also work well in HO scale (1:87) for small details like signal lamps, buoy lights, and lighthouse beacons. For HO-scale building interiors and locomotive headlights, 3mm LEDs are more commonly used because they are easier to handle and produce more light. Choose based on the physical space available in your specific structure or model.