1 Watt Star LEDs

1 watt star LEDs are the most accessible watt-class emitters for custom lighting builds.

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  • 1 Watt High Power Star LED - Blue
    SKU: 1WATTSTARLEDBLUE
    Super bright high power 1W (watt) blue star led! Use them for cabinet lighting, room lighting, flashlights and anything else you can imagine.
    $2.49
  • 1 Watt High Power Star LED - Cool / Clear White
    SKU: 1WATTSTARLEDWHITE
    Super bright high power 1W (watt) cool / clear white star led! Use them for cabinet lighting, room lighting, flashlights and anything else you can imagine.
    $2.49
  • 1 Watt High Power Star LED - Green
    SKU: 1WATTSTARLEDGREEN
    Super bright high power 1W (watt) green star led! Use them for cabinet lighting, room lighting, flashlights and anything else you can imagine.
    $2.49
  • 1 Watt High Power Star LED - Red
    SKU: 1WATTSTARLEDRED
    Super bright high power 1W (watt) red star led! Use them for cabinet lighting, room lighting, flashlights and anything else you can imagine.
    $2.49
  • 1 Watt High Power Star LED - Warm / Soft White
    SKU: 1WATTSTARLEDWARMWHITE
    Super bright high power 1W (watt) warm / soft white star led! Use them for cabinet lighting, room lighting, flashlights and anything else you can imagine.
    $2.49
  • 1 Watt High Power Star LED - Yellow / Gold
    SKU: 1WATTSTARLEDYELLOWGOLD
    Super bright high power 1W (watt) yellow gold star led! Use them for cabinet lighting, room lighting, flashlights and anything else you can imagine.
    $2.49
  • Solder Rosin Core 60/40 .040
    SKU: SOLDER040
    Solder to go along with your projects and solder iron. Great for nearly any soldering project regarding leds.
    $2.99

7 Items

1 watt star LEDs are the most accessible watt-class emitters for custom lighting builds. Each LED chip is factory-soldered to a 20mm aluminum-core star PCB that provides both electrical connection pads and a thermal heat-spreading path. Running at 300–350mA with a forward voltage of 2.0–3.6V depending on color, a single 1W star LED produces 80–130 lumens — roughly equivalent to a small halogen accent bulb and dramatically brighter than any standard 20mA through-hole LED. We stock 1W star LEDs in red, orange, amber, yellow, green, blue, cool white, warm white, natural white, UV, and infrared. Each product page lists the exact peak wavelength or color temperature, forward voltage at rated current, luminous flux, and viewing angle.

Flashlight builds: The custom flashlight community is one of the largest markets for 1W star LEDs. A single cool white 1W star paired with a smooth aluminum reflector and a single-cell lithium battery creates a compact, efficient everyday-carry flashlight that outperforms most commercial keychain lights. The 20mm star PCB drops directly onto the heatsink pill of standard P60-compatible flashlight hosts, Maglite conversion modules, and custom-machined aluminum bodies. Cool white (5500–6500K) produces the highest perceived brightness and sharpest beam definition; warm white (3000–4000K) renders colors more naturally and is preferred for outdoor and camping use where accurate color vision matters. Red 1W stars serve as astronomy flashlights (preserving night-adapted vision) and hunting/tactical lights. Green is popular for hog hunting, blood tracking, and night fishing. UV stars (395–405nm) power mineral fluorescence flashlights, scorpion hunting, and forensic evidence detection.

Architectural and accent lighting: Interior designers and custom lighting builders use arrays of 1W star LEDs in recessed housings, under-cabinet fixtures, cove lighting channels, and display case lighting. The 20mm star format allows precise placement on a heatsink bar at any spacing — drill and tap mounting holes at 25–30mm intervals for a continuous linear wash, or space them farther apart for individual accent spots. Warm white stars (3000–4000K) create the inviting glow expected in residential and hospitality settings; natural white (4000–4500K) suits retail displays and art gallery lighting where accurate color rendering matters. Unlike standard LEDs that produce milliwatts of output, 1W stars produce enough lumens per emitter to serve as functional room accent lighting, not just decorative dots.

Reef aquarium and planted tank lighting: Coral reef aquarium builders use arrays of royal blue (450–470nm) and cool white 1W star LEDs to create a balanced spectrum for coral growth and viewing aesthetics. Blue light drives photosynthesis in the zooxanthellae algae within coral tissue, while white light provides the full visible spectrum for the aquarist to assess coral color and health. UV stars (395–405nm) added at low power levels promote coral fluorescence for dramatic visual effects during moonlight viewing. The 1W format is preferred over 3W for reef builds where a large number of evenly spaced emitters creates more uniform light distribution across the tank, with each emitter running cooler and more efficiently than fewer, harder-driven 3W chips.

Thermal management: Every 1W star LED requires a heatsink. The aluminum star PCB spreads heat away from the die, but it cannot dissipate 0.7–0.8W of thermal energy into still air alone. Bolt the star to a flat aluminum heatsink surface using M2 or M3 screws with thermal paste or a thermal pad in between. For a single 1W star, a small passive heatsink (25×25mm finned block or a flat aluminum plate of similar area) is sufficient. For arrays of multiple stars on a common heatsink bar, allow at least 20cm² of heatsink surface per emitter and ensure adequate airflow across the fins. In enclosed fixtures, consider adding a small fan. The star’s mounting holes make thermal management straightforward — this is one of the reasons the star format dominates the DIY high power LED market.

Driving 1W star LEDs: A constant-current LED driver rated at 350mA is the recommended way to drive 1W star LEDs. The driver maintains precise current regardless of supply voltage fluctuations and the LED’s own Vf shift as it heats up. For a single star, a simple 350mA buck driver module is compact and inexpensive. For a series string of stars (preferred wiring method), add the individual Vf values and choose a 350mA driver with adequate output voltage range. A resistor can work for short-term testing or experimental purposes, but wastes significant power as heat — at 12V with a 3V white star, the resistor dissipates 3.15W vs. the LED’s 1W. Use our LED resistor calculator if you go the resistor route. For AC power sources, add a bridge rectifier and capacitor first — see the AC/DCC wiring guide.

Related categories: For higher output per emitter, 3W star LEDs run at 600–700mA on the same 20mm star board with approximately twice the lumen output but proportionally higher thermal requirements. For maximum single-module output, 10W LEDs produce 800–1200 lumens. For a brighter through-hole LED that requires no heatsink, the 0.5W DIP high power LEDs bridge the gap between standard 20mA indicators and watt-class emitters. For standard indicator brightness, browse clear top DIP LEDs and diffused LEDs in our component LEDs catalog. New to LEDs? Pre-wired LEDs are the easiest starting point — the resistor is already built in.

Frequently Asked Questions

Forward voltage depends on color. Red/orange/amber/yellow 1W stars typically have a Vf of 2.0–2.5V. Blue/green/white/UV are typically 3.0–3.6V. The exact Vf at 350mA drive current is listed on each product page. Use Vf to calculate the total voltage requirement for series strings and to select the appropriate constant-current driver output voltage range.
A 1W star LED at 350mA produces 80–130 lumens. A standard 5mm LED at 20mA produces a few lumens at most (the mcd rating measures directional intensity, not total light output). A single 1W star LED puts out more usable light than a dozen standard 5mm LEDs combined. The difference is visible instantly — a 1W star illuminates surfaces, while a standard LED is only visible as a point of light.
A small passive aluminum heatsink measuring approximately 25×25mm (1×1″) with fins is sufficient for a single 1W star in open air. Apply thermal paste or use a thermal pad between the star board and the heatsink, and bolt down with M2 or M3 screws through the star’s mounting holes. For enclosed housings, use a larger heatsink or add ventilation. A flat aluminum plate can also serve as a heatsink if it has enough surface area (at least 20cm²).
A constant-current driver at 350mA is strongly recommended. A resistor works for short-duration testing but wastes significant power as heat. At 12V with a 3V white star LED, the resistor dissipates over 3W — more than three times the LED’s own power. A 350mA constant-current buck driver module is inexpensive and far more efficient. Use our LED resistor calculator if you prefer resistor wiring.
Yes — all 1W star LEDs use the same 20mm star board, so they mount identically to any heatsink. However, different colors have different forward voltages, so you cannot wire red (2V) and blue (3.2V) stars in the same series string. Group same-color stars into series strings, each driven by its own constant-current channel. This is how multi-color reef aquarium and stage light panels are built — separate red, blue, and white channels on a common heatsink.
The 20mm star format is compatible with a wide range of aftermarket TIR lenses, collimating optics, and reflectors. TIR lenses clip or press-fit onto the star board and focus the LED’s wide Lambertian emission into controlled beam angles (8° spot, 25° medium, 45° flood, 60° wide). Smooth metal reflectors create a focused spot with spill beam for flashlights. Frosted or textured diffusers soften the beam for architectural wash lighting. Ensure the optic is designed for your LED’s specific die size for proper focal alignment.