Posted on June 4, 2012 by LighthouseLEDs
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What you will need:
Removal of the SMDs/Lights
We are going to use a method that we like to call 'floating' the SMD off. This involves putting a decent amount of solder on the tip of your iron and then dragging it across the edge of the SMD where the two solder points are. You want to melt both connections connections at the same time otherwise the SMD will not 'float off'. Do not apply excessive pressure to the SMD with the iron (a tiny bit is acceptable, but not a lot) otherwise you risk tearing up a pad. Sometimes adding a little bit of solder to each end of the SMD before trying to 'float' it off will help considerably. Once you remove all four lights then make sure the soldering pads are clear of excessive solder (you don't want mounds solder on the pad or you will have trouble soldering the leds flat).
Installation of New Lights/SMDs
After all of the original Lights are removed you must then put on the new ones. Get out your SMDs that you have purchased and remove only one of them at a time, otherwise you will most likely lose one. When you have one removed pick it up with the tweezers and look to see which side is positive. Now that you know the orientation of the SMD, position it accordingly for installation with it laying flat (lens facing directly up). We are going to solder the positive side first so add a little solder to the + pad that you are going to solder to first. Grab the negative side of the SMD with tweezers and hold the positive side of the SMD just in above the appropriate pad. Once you have it in the position you want, hold it tightly and melt the solder that you just added to the pad and put the SMD into the solder so it sticks to the SMD. Remove the soldering iron and let the solder cool down and harden then remove the tweezers. It is important to remeber that you should not apply heat to the board or the SMDs very long or you could cause damage. You should only apply heat for a couple of seconds at a time at the most. Repeat this process for all of the corners and you are done!! Test and Enjoy!
If you have a CG controller (please check our guide in the tutorials section) then blue and UV will be dim (or hardly show up) on a wireless controller and other colors may also be slightly dimmer than maximum capacity. This is due to the lack of voltage at these points in the controller and has nothing to do with the leds.
This post was posted in Xbox 360 Tutorials / Install Guides and was tagged with xbox 360 mods, xbox 360 controller mod, Xbox 360 controller, xbox 360 transistor mod, xbox 360 led mod, xbox 360 modding tutorials, xbox 360 modding guides, xbox 360 on off, automatic off, on off leds